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Global Hair Trade Faces Scrutiny Over Ethical Sources and Labor Practices

Global Hair Trade Faces Scrutiny Over Ethical Sources and Labor Practices

Increasing demand for hair extensions and wigs reveals a complex supply chain with concerning ethical implications.
The global beauty market for hair products, including extensions and wigs, is projected to grow significantly, soaring from an estimated $4.45 billion in 2023 to $10.78 billion by 2032. This surge is largely driven by rising demand among individuals experiencing hair loss, bolstered by trends set by celebrities and social media influencers.

However, the hair trade, once a niche market, now involves intricate supply chains and ethical concerns.

India is the dominant player in the global hair export market, providing over 90% of the world's supply.

Major export destinations include China, Europe, and the United States, with Indian hair valued for its quality, natural appearance, and fine texture.

The country's hair industry is estimated to be worth around $1 billion and supports millions of workers.

While some of the hair is sourced from donations at Hindu temples in Southern India, where individuals often shave their heads as a form of devotion, a substantial proportion of hair comes from less transparent origins.

Reports indicate that much of the hair collected comes from waste material, rather than honorable sources.

Local collectors sell hair to traders at prices ranging from $0.10 to $1 per kilogram, depending on the quality and length.

Shorter or damaged hair fetches lower prices, while longer strands yield higher returns.

Collectors, who may gather between 1 to 5 kilograms of hair daily, often receive wages that fall below the minimum wage, despite being part of a multi-billion-dollar global market.

The hair collected is predominantly exported to China, where it is processed and repackaged for sale in Western markets at marked-up prices.

Research from anthropologists indicates that hair from India, China, and Myanmar is often collected before being sent to manufacturers in China who supply products to Europe, North America, and Africa.

The dark hand of exploitation looms large within this supply chain, particularly affecting workers at the bottom levels.

They face not only meager wages but also physically demanding labor.

Collectors often perform repetitive tasks that can result in physical strain.

An individual may spend up to 80 hours merely untangling a batch of 1.5 kg of hair.

In processing factories, women typically handle tasks involving sorting and cleaning the hair, while men may take on lighter roles or more lucrative positions such as trading.

There is currently a lack of reliable data regarding the percentage of hair salons utilizing hair sourced from unethical origins.

However, it is acknowledged that higher-quality hair, often from Europe, is also the most expensive.

European hair, prized for its fine texture and diverse color range, primarily originates from Eastern European countries such as Russia, Romania, and Ukraine.

Despite the reliance on supplier integrity to determine hair origins, mislabeling remains prevalent, and consumers typically do not question the sources of the products they purchase.

This ongoing practice raises significant concerns regarding ethical sourcing and the treatment of laborers involved in the global hair trade.
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