Budapest Post

Cum Deo pro Patria et Libertate
Budapest, Europe and world news

Remembering Alber Elbaz, the Beloved Fashion Designer Who Revived Lanvin

A favorite of celebrities like Meryl Streep and Natalie Portman, he rejuvenated Lanvin and had recently started his own brand. He died of Covid-19.

The fashion industry is mourning the loss of Alber Elbaz, a highly esteemed figure, a Moroccan-born Israeli fashion designer who rejuvenated Lanvin and had recently started a new venture, AZ Factory, who succeeded Yves Saint Laurent as designer of the label’s Rive Gauche line but is perhaps best known for elevating Lanvin into a more prominent house during his 14-year tenure as creative director.




From 2001 to 2015, the Israeli-Moroccan-born couturier experimented with dresses made from a single seam and which effortlessly toed the line between classic and modern. His rigorous attention to detail and masterful tailoring was the stuff of legend, and belied his ebullient demeanor and simple raison d’être of making the wearers of his clothes feel special.

Despite Elbaz’s beloved reputation and numerous accolades, including the CFDA’s 2005 International Award and being named one of Time’s 100 Most Influential People in 2007, he often clashed with Lanvin owner Madame Wang over the brand’s lack of an “It Bag” within a fickle fashion market often fueled by accessories. His abrupt departure from the French label was acrimonious, well-documented, and controversial—he embarked on a five-year hiatus marked by global travel before launching his own brand, AZ Factory, in January, on his own terms.



Backed by Swiss luxury company Richemont, AZ Factory strives to make reasonably priced clothes that solve women’s problems and eschew fashion-industry trappings of season and size. Johann Rupert, the founder of Richemont, released the following statement about Elbaz’s death: “I’ve lost not only a colleague but a beloved friend. Alber had a richly deserved reputation as one of the industry’s brightest and most beloved figures. I was always taken by his intelligence, sensitivity, generosity, and unbridled creativity. He was a man of exceptional warmth and talent, and his singular vision, sense of beauty, and empathy leave an indelible impression.”

Elbaz’s passing comes as the fashion industry is still reeling from the recent death of Kenzo Takada, also of Covid-19. For a little-known fact about Elbaz that may leave you with a smile, we recommend visiting Maison Bonnet, the Parisian workshop where he ordered much of his statement eyewear.

Beloved not only by his celebrity clients like Meryl Streep and Natalie Portman but also by his peers, Mr. Elbaz was that rare character in fashion: a truly empathetic and generous designer, both in the clothes he made and in the way he conducted himself within the business. The graceful lines of his dresses mimicked the graceful lines of his life.




“Alber always thought of fashion as an embrace of life at its best,” said Anna Wintour, the global chief content officer for Condé Nast and editor of Vogue. “And when we wore his clothes, or were in his wonderful, joyful presence, we felt that, too.”

Designers like Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino and Stella McCartney all paid tribute to what Mr. Piccioli called one of fashion’s “biggest treasures.”

Mr. Elbaz had launched AZ Factory after a five-year hiatus following his abrupt firing from Lanvin, where he was fashion director from 2001 to 2015. During his time there, he turned Lanvin, the oldest surviving but dusty French fashion house, into a more modern and prominent brand whose creations were worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Lupita Nyong’o, Pharrell Williams, Michelle Obama and Harry Styles.

Mr. Elbaz was known for his self-deprecating humor and his insecurities. He had a fraught, public relationship with his weight and said that being skinny was a fantasy that influenced his work. He transformed that fantasy into lightness, he said, by turning his creations into comfortable and sometimes subtly eccentric clothes.



Ms. Portman once called him the “ultimate fashion philosopher-mentor.”

“He says things to me like: ‘Wear flats. You’re short. It’s much cooler not to pretend,’” Ms. Portman told Time magazine in 2007, when it named Mr. Elbaz one of the world’s 100 most influential people.

In recent years he had become something of a one-man advocate for reform of the fashion system and the pressures increasingly placed on designers.

As he said in 2015, as he received the Fashion Group International award, “We designers, we started as couturiers,” asking: ‘What do women want? What do women need? What can I do for a woman to make her life better and easier? How can I make a woman more beautiful?’”

Then, he said, “we became creative directors, so we have to create, but mostly direct.”

“And now,” he continued, “we have to become image-makers, creating a buzz, making sure that it looks good in the pictures. The screen has to scream, baby. That’s the rule. Loudness is the new cool, and not only in fashion, you know. I prefer whispering.”

The world of intricate dresses, cat walks and red carpets was one that he embraced publicly but remained wary of.

“You have to go back to nothing in order to maintain the dream,” Mr. Elbaz told The New Yorker in 2009. “The moment the dream becomes reality and you start to mingle too much with all these people—” He left the comment unfinished.

Still, luxury clothes came with a price that he readily justified. He once compared a fashion collection to a vaccine — an easy product to duplicate, but not something cheap to create.



Albert Elbaz was born in Casablanca, Morocco, on June 12, 1961, and grew up in Israel. His mother, Alegria, was a painter, and his father, Meyer, a colorist in a hair salon. Though he dreamed of becoming a doctor as a child — he always called himself a terrible hypochondriac — fashion proved a better route to helping people.

After studying design at Shenkar College of Engineering, Design and Art in Tel Aviv in the mid-1980s and a brief stint in the Israeli army, he moved to New York, where he removed the T from his first name so that it would not be mispronounced, and because “Alber Elbaz,” he thought, made for a more balanced brand name.

His survivors include a brother and two sisters as well as his partner, Alex Koo.

In New York, Mr. Elbaz became the assistant designer of Geoffrey Beene. He then moved to Paris in 1996 to become the head of prêt-à-porter design at Guy Laroche. Two years later, Yves Saint Laurent chose Mr. Elbaz to take over as his heir, designing the women’s Rive Gauche ready-to-wear collections for YSL.

That dream, however, was short-lived, as Gucci Group bought the brand in 1999 and Mr. Elbaz was soon fired in favor of Tom Ford. It was a crushing blow and started Mr. Elbaz on his journey questioning fashion.

In 2001, he met Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwan-based, Chinese-born former media mogul who was part of a consortium that had purchased Lanvin, and persuaded her to “awake the sleeping beauty,” as he put it. Their partnership led to an aesthetic flowering as Mr. Elbaz experimented with dresses made from a single seam and clothes that managed to be both generous and elegant, straddling the line between classicism and modernism.

“Alber would always tell me, ‘I am just a dressmaker’,” said Ms. Wintour of Vogue. “He was, if by that we mean someone who had the enviable ability to make something women would love to wear — and an incredible instinct for how they would want to feel when they were wearing it.”

Mr. Elbaz received the International Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2005 and was named one of Time magazine’s 100 Most Influential People in 2007. In 2016, the French government named him an Officier of the Légion d’Honneur.

Aside from a hit sneaker, however, Mr. Elbaz never quite managed to create the It bag that could power a brand forward in a world driven by accessories, and after repeated clashes with Madame Wang over the future of Lanvin, he was fired, to the shock of the industry.

For the next five years Mr. Elbaz wandered the world, taking meetings in Silicon Valley and Switzerland, dipping in and out of collaborations with brands like Tod’s and Le Sportsac, and trying to decide what to do next.



His answer was a new brand, AZ Factory — which was backed by Richemont, the Swiss luxury company — based on the idea of making clothes to solve women’s problems, at a more accessible price, sold directly to them, without heed of season, size or dictat, using technology at the service of beauty.

“I asked myself, ‘If I was a woman, what would I want?’” Mr. Elbaz told The New York Times in January. “Something that is first comfortable. Something fun. Something that lets me eat a big piece of cake.”

That allowed him to create the most simple things he had ever made, he said — although he had also compared the formation of his new brand to giving birth.

“My hormones are burning,” Mr. Elbaz added. “I’m so itchy. I cry and laugh within seconds.” Still, he said, he was thrilled to be back.



AI Disclaimer: An advanced artificial intelligence (AI) system generated the content of this page on its own. This innovative technology conducts extensive research from a variety of reliable sources, performs rigorous fact-checking and verification, cleans up and balances biased or manipulated content, and presents a minimal factual summary that is just enough yet essential for you to function as an informed and educated citizen. Please keep in mind, however, that this system is an evolving technology, and as a result, the article may contain accidental inaccuracies or errors. We urge you to help us improve our site by reporting any inaccuracies you find using the "Contact Us" link at the bottom of this page. Your helpful feedback helps us improve our system and deliver more precise content. When you find an article of interest here, please look for the full and extensive coverage of this topic in traditional news sources, as they are written by professional journalists that we try to support, not replace. We appreciate your understanding and assistance.
Newsletter

Related Articles

0:00
0:00
Close
UK Government Tries to Sue 4chan for Breaching Online Safety Act
Dogfights in the Skies: Airbus on Track to Overtake Boeing and Claim Aviation Supremacy
Tim Cook Promises an AI Revolution at Apple: "One of the Most Significant Technologies of Our Generation"
Are AI Data Centres the Infrastructure of the Future or the Next Crisis?
Miles Worth Billions: How Airlines Generate Huge Profits
Cambridge Dictionary Adds 'Skibidi,' 'Delulu,' and 'Tradwife' Amid Surge of Online Slang
Zelenskyy Returns to White House Flanked by European Allies as Trump Pressures Land-Swap Deal with Putin
The CEO Who Replaced 80% of Employees for the AI Revolution: "I Would Do It Again"
"Every Centimeter of Your Body Is a Masterpiece": The Shocking Meta Document Revealed
Character.ai Bets on Future of AI Companionship
China Ramps Up Tax Crackdown on Overseas Investments
Japanese Office Furniture Maker Expands into Bomb Shelter Market
Intel Shares Surge on Possible U.S. Government Investment
Hurricane Erin Threatens U.S. East Coast with Dangerous Surf
EU Blocks Trade Statement Over Digital Rule Dispute
EU Sends Record Aid as Spain Battles Wildfires
Beijing is moving into gold and other assets, diversifying away from the dollar
China Requires Data Centres to Source Majority of AI Chips Locally, For Technological Sovereignty
Escalating Clashes in Serbia as Anti-Government Protests Spread Nationwide
Category 5 Hurricane in the Caribbean: 'Catastrophic Storm' with Winds of 255 km/h
Trump Backs Putin’s Land-for-Peace Proposal Amid Kyiv’s Rejection
Digital Humans Move Beyond Sci-Fi: From Virtual DJs to AI Customer Agents
YouTube will start using AI to guess your age. If it’s wrong, you’ll have to prove it
Jellyfish Swarm Triggers Shutdown at Gravelines Nuclear Power Station in Northern France
OpenAI’s ‘PhD-Level’ ChatGPT 5 Stumbles, Struggles to Even Label a Map
Zelenskyy to Visit Washington after Trump–Putin Summit Yields No Agreement
High-Stakes Trump-Putin Summit on Ukraine Underway in Alaska
The World Economic Forum has cleared Klaus Schwab of “material wrongdoing” after a law firm conducted a review into potential misconduct of the institution’s founder
A Computer That Listens, Sees, and Acts: What to Expect from Windows 12
Bitcoin hits $123,000
Southwest Airlines Apologizes After 'Accidentally Forgetting' Two Blind Passengers at New Orleans Airport and Faces Criticism Over Poor Service for Passengers with Disabilities
United States Sells Luxury Yacht Amadea, Valued at Approximately $325 Million, in First Sale of a Seized Russian Yacht Since the Invasion of Ukraine
Russian Forces Advance on Donetsk Front, Cutting Key Supply Routes Near Pokrovsk
It’s Not the Algorithm: New Study Claims Social Networks Are Fundamentally Broken
Sixty-Year-Old Claims: “My Biological Age Is Twenty-One.” Want the Same? Remember the Name Spermidine
Saudi Arabia accelerates renewables to curb domestic oil use
The Billion-Dollar Inheritance and the Death on the Railway Tracks: The Scandal Shaking Europe
World’s Cleanest Countries 2025 Ranked by Air, Water, Waste, and Hygiene Standards
Denmark Revives EU ‘Chat Control’ Proposal for Encrypted Message Scanning
Perplexity makes unsolicited $34.5 billion all-cash offer for Google’s Chrome browser
Cristiano Ronaldo and Georgina Rodríguez announce engagement
Taylor Swift announces 12th studio album on Travis Kelce’s podcast after high-profile year together
Asia-Pacific dominates world’s busiest flight routes, with South Korea’s Jeju–Seoul corridor leading global rankings
Sam Altman challenges Elon Musk with plans for Neuralink rival
Trump and Putin Meeting: Focus on Listening and Communication
Instagram Released a New Feature – and Sent Users Into a Panic
China Accuses: Nvidia Chips Are U.S. Espionage Tools
Mercedes’ CEO Is Killing Germany’s Auto Legacy
US Postal Service Targets Unregulated Vape Distributors in Crackdown
RFK Jr. Announces HHS Investigation into Big Pharma Incentives to Doctors
×